Tuesday, 17 September 2013

Army Painter Mega Set - finally arrived!

The postie almost thumped the door down at Nerd Towers this morning, with a boxed set of the Army Painter Mega Set from www.ibuywargames.co.uk
There'd been a delay in posting - through no fault of the sender - and the customer service from ibuywargames.co.uk was fantastic. We feel it's important to support local, independent businesses, and where businesses remember to treat the customers like people, we like to shout about it. We're already looking forward to doing business again with Ian from www.ibuywargames.co.uk

But for now, we've got a brand new, shiny boxed set of paints to play with.
It's the "older" Mega Set (Army Painter are releasing a new set for September 2013 with a few more colours and a range of seven different inks/washes) but Ian did us a really good deal, and with an extra 10% off his advertised price, we got the set for about two-thirds of the RRP.


We went for this set because of the dropper style bottles, which should allow us to dispense the right amount of paint, accurately, for mixing colours. With this in mind, we're hoping the days of buying up every shade of green, for example, are over! The reviews of the paint set are also very positive, with reviewers comparing them favourably with some of the more popular, "better" brands.

So what's in the box?


There's a painting guide, six different sized brushes and six boxes of paints. Each box of paints has a range of similar colours:

there's a box of blue-y, grey colours

a box of green-y yellows

a box of browns and flesh colours, and so on....

We've not had time to try the actual paints out yet, but they all look a nice consistency when dispensed onto a white ceramic mixing palette (ok, a small dining plate). At first glance, the Uniform Grey paint matches the Uniform Grey primer perfectly (that's a big selling point of this range of paints) and painting a pale colour over a grey primer gives a very good finish after two coats (you might get away with one coat, as the coverage is very good, but the second coat really makes the colour nice and vibrant).

Also included in the set are water-based versions of the Quickshade in three tones - soft, strong and dark. We'll give these a go this evening, and compare the finishes with the tin of Quickshade we just bought and see how they match up. Having already dropped (and chipped the paint off) one of our miniatures, the idea of a varnish-based stain (rather than ink) is quite appealing - so we'll see how the two compare, later on tonight.

Army Painter QuickShade trial

A tin of Army Painter Quickshade arrived this morning, bright and early.
Just in time to crack it open and give it a quick try before work!

It smells like what it is - a spirit based varnish with coloured pigments. I'd read on the 'net that it' just brand-x walnut varnish, someone else said it was floor cleaner with ink in it, someone else said it was something else... but from the tutorials I've seen using genuine Army Painter Quickshade, everyone has been quite positive about it. So why trying to make up something similar on the cheap, when the real thing is tried and tested and known to work? It's not actually that bad (compared to, say, spirit-based gloss paint) but it does have a definite scent.

It takes 24 hours to cure properly, so it made sense to whack some on sooner rather than later, and have some miniatures ready for painting early tomorrow.

Here's a Tyranid coated with Quickshade. There's no point being gentle with this stuff. It's designed as a dip (you literally dip the miniatures into the pot) but a lot of people recommend "splashing it on" with a brush. If you're timid, you'll just end up tinting all your colours a dark brown: this stuff really needs to be whacked on generously.


Here's the same model painted in just two colours of base coat, so you can see the dramatic difference Quickshade has made already:


Of course, where it settles in pools (you can see on the end of one of the claws in the photo above) you can lift it off with the paintbrush - but to get the best results, just chuck it on!

note how the Quickshade brings out the individual digits on the hands of this soldier - much quicker and easier than painting each digit over a darker base colour (although we'll probably go back and highlight the digits later, to get a really cool finish)

So far, so promising. I got a Tyranid and four soldiers shaded in less than ten minutes. The models are much darker now than before shading as even where it's not settled into the crevices, it still tints the original base colour: something to bear in mind in future, and perhaps move the entire colour scheme "up" a shade when base-coating (e.g. paint with white -not bone- then shade, for a bone effect or paint with mid-green and shade instead of dark green for the base-coat on Orksies).

It's going to be tomorrow before I can try out the anti-shine matt varnish and get some details painted onto these models, but already they're looking quite encouraging. More to follow. In the meantime, we've some board game sections to solder up for testing...

The Army Painter method makes you re-think miniature painting

I've not done any miniature painting for a long time. Well, maybe three miniatures in the last couple of years. But before that, it was about 20 years since I last picked up a 000-sized paintbrush.

While waiting for the Army Painter Mega Set to arrive from www.ibuywargames.co.uk I tried out some painting techniques, using some old acrylics, to see if I could still paint an eyeball with a 5/0 brush without my hands shaking uncontrollably. Since the Army Painter method relies heavily on ink washing, I figured it'd be a good idea to try that out too - only this time using Games Workshop's old style inks/washes.

Previously my painting technique was to undercoat in black, and then colour dark colours up to the lighter ones - often leaving a thin black line between touching shapes - giving a very 80s-style cartoon look to my miniatures. The problem with this approach is that it's really laborious - every colour requires a super-fine brush (and a super-steady hand) to leave just the thinnest of black outlines.

And while small brushes for small models sounds like a great idea, using such a small brush means you only get one or two "swipes" onto the model before it's time to load the brush up with more paint. The trouble is, use a larger brush and it's really difficult to get those nice thin black lines between different colours without lots of correcting and over-painting. So I'm still more comfortable with a tiny brush and spending more time laying each colour down, absolutely precisely.


Here's a half-painted Tyranid, painted using a combination of washes (brown ink over a Skull White model) and fine-detail brushwork (carapace painting, patterning and face details).

I'm still not 100% sold on this model - I think the limbs could do with more colour (maybe a red/pink where the joints are) but I was rather glad that I managed to get the details in roughly the right places on the face (the eyes are in the eye sockets and the teeth are all inside the mouth!). I've never really used inks/washes, and this looks a bit  dirty and muddy, rather than neatly tinted, like many other painters manage. But it's nice to see that I can still work fairly detailed (though no clever blending or gradient techniques for me!)

I even went as far as a thin highlight line on the gun panels, and a little light drybrushing on the head. But ultimately this model was painted the "old school way" I've always done - with a tiny brush, layers of lighter colours over darker ones, and lots of patience.

(top shows my usual sized paintbrush, below is the much larger GW standard brush)

While visiting the local hobby store to buy some different coloured inks recently (Army Painter are bringing out a range of different inks, but not 'til the end of this month, and I'm still waiting for the paints and some QuickShade to arrive in the post) I asked for some advice on speeding up painting - I'm still spending far too long getting the basic colours in place, rather than on the fun stuff, like faces and finer details that really make a model look cool.

I was told to use a much bigger brush. At first I was horrified.
But then I started to understand....

As inks/washes was a technique I'd never used, I never appreciated that the first few coats of paint don't have to be exactly perfectly placed - the ink settles in the crevices, usually where two different colours meet. This can help disguise tiny imperfections between the joining lines.

Using my ink-free technique, even a tiny wobble in these lines was noticeable, so I spend lots and lots of time making sure that every area of colour is as neat as I can make it. Using ink to "blur the joins" you can, apparently, get away with a larger brush. And since a larger brush can hold more paint, this means fewer round-trips to the paint pot to reload the brush - which in turn speeds up your painting.

As I'm expecting some Quickshade to arrive in the post, any time soon, I thought I'd give this approach a try. It was certainly liberating. I raced through base coating a couple of miniatures in about half an hour (instead of the usual 2-3 hours it would normally take just to get the flat, base colours down).


using nothing but a Citadel "standard" brush, I painted the bone coloured body and purple carapace in about 15 minutes.

note how the hands appear as just grey blobs, rather than meticulously painted individual fingers (in two or three shades of highlight) prior to shading the miniatures - here's hoping the Quickshade does it's job!

I'm hoping the Army Painter Quickshade (when it gets here) works as well on my models as it appears to for other painters. Of course the result after inking still requires touching up and some highlights to be added and brightening up in places - but just the idea of roughing out models prior to inking has made me reconsider how (and even why) I'm painting my miniatures.

Ultimately the idea is to get some playing pieces onto a board game.
That's why I'm painting these miniatures. Not so I've a dozen perfect works of art, but so I've got some player counters for the up-and-coming digital boardgame Starship Raiders.

At the rate I was painting, I'd probably get one piece done a week - and by the end of six weeks, I'd be fed up and put all my paints away, still leaving a dozen or more miniatures needing to be finished just to play a single board game!

Army Painter encourages you to paint quickly:
To begin with, prime and base coat all your miniatures in one go. My Spaceship Raiders are going to be mostly grey, so they were primed with Uniform Grey spray paint. It took just a few minutes to do the whole troop. What next? Get you big brush, paint the gun black. Was that quick? Then paint the gun on another miniature. When you're done, grab another miniature and paint that gun too. Before long I had five miniatures painted grey with black guns.
So next up, paint some paler grey bits (I did the shoulder pads and equipment belts). Suddenly that's my three-colour analogous colour scheme done, right there. Although I've plans to introduce more colours and plenty of detail to the miniatures, I very quickly got to the stage where I'm ready to apply the Army Painter Quickshade and see all the tiny little details "pop out".

Sadly that'll have to wait until the Quickshade arrives. But already I'm looking forward to adding the little details to finish these miniatures off, instead of dreading the thought of having four or five more to do after getting just half-way through the first!



Tuesday, 10 September 2013

Army Painter spray primer first test

We bought some spray primer off eBay, some time after buying the Army Painter Mega Set from www.ibuywargames.co.uk. The primer arrived today - some time ahead of the paint set - so there's not really much we can do except prepare a few miniatures, ready for when the paints arrive. Then again, if we'd received the paints before the primer, we wouldn't be able to paint any miniatures anyway, so maybe it doesn't really matter.

We've seen a few tutorials on the 'net about spray priming miniatures. Almost all of them line up their miniatures inside a small box and blast them with a quick coat of primer. It looked easy enough, so that's exactly what we did:

spraying outside is always a good idea - and even more so with a paint you've never used before, and have no idea about how it's going to behave!

We stuck some sprues down with a blob of white tack and hit the miniatures with a layer of spray paint.


We turned the miniatures around a bit and continued spraying, in short bursts, from about 20cm - as recommended by the Army Painter website. After a few blasts, we let the primer dry and inspected it.


Sadly there were still large areas of bare metal. Maybe it's down to technique, or just not understanding how it works, but this method of spray coating with primer wasn't exactly a resounding success! The only way we managed to get a nice even coat was by holding the model and moving it around. We really should have used some kind of mount though.


That acrylic primer really does stick to everything - and takes a massive amount of effort to clean it off. On the upside, even in places where we were a little "generous" with the spray, as the primer dries it tightens up and creates a lovely, smooth matt, textured surface ready for painting onto.

Now we just need to sit tight and wait for the Army Painter Mega Set arrives in the post, and see how their "quick tone" method of shading works.

Sunday, 8 September 2013

Painting miniatures is proper nerdy

About 18 months ago, we took a break from an ongoing digital board game project, and returned to an old hobby of twenty or more years ago: miniatures painting.
It's frustrating to return to something you used to be good at, and find out you're not quite as good as you once were! Without wishing to sound immodest, some of our earlier miniatures, painted during the early 90s, were - by today's standards anyway - pretty darned impressive.

More recent painting attempts still show the "dated 80s style" of painting - basically starting with a dark colour, then painting from the "inside out" (i.e. starting with the deepest recesses and painting up to the upper-most shapes) and finally highlighting the extremities.

Only a few weeks ago, we dug out the old Citadel paints, scraped the dried paint from around the tops of the pots and had another go.

in close-up, the painted effects are far less impressive than when viewed from at an arm's length!

Now miniature painting is quite a nice way to get away from the computer for a few hours, and do something creative. But our paints are a bit raggedy now, and we've already spent a small fortune at the local GW store buying up more paints, which now bear no relation to the paints we've already got (apparently GW changed their paint suppliers - and thus all their paint names - a few years back).

Building up an expansive set of paints is going to be an expensive job. But mixing colours from our existing range is a painfully slow task - take a dab from the pot with a clean brush, wash and dry the brush, take a dab from another pot, mix, wash and dry the brush, take another dab from somewhere else, mix, wash, dry.... how fantastically tedious!

Then, almost by accident, we came across The Army Painter range of paints.
These paints have clever little dropper tops, allowing a precise amount to be dispensed.


This approach means that inbetween shades can easily be mixed, accurately and repeatedly.


Suddenly, the idea of having 145 little pots of paint and having to use exactly the right colour on exactly the right model seems like a crazy idea!

Over about a hundred years we've tried artist's and craft acrylics, many different manufacturer's paints and, reading reviews online, it seems that there's a massive difference in performance between even the same suppliers of paints (the Games Workshop Citadel range is apparently very inconsistent across range types). So are these paints any good?

The online reviews for far have all been pretty positive. Even White Dwarf 'Eavy Metal painter Mike McVey has said they're very good quality paints. Which is good enough for us! But what's really got us interested, is the Army Painter method of "dip shading" or Quick Shades. They provide a quick way of getting a half-decent level of painted miniatures onto the tabletop, in just four steps:

http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=123&Gallery=Terrorizer&page=1


The results are nothing short of amazing. And, apparently, quicker, easier, and all-round better-looking than our recent painting attempts. There are obviously a few extra steps applied after the anti-gloss is applied (some extra details are picked out using very fine brushes) but to date, everyone who's used them has said they're excellent paints and get really good results, really quickly.

What better excuse to get some bought and try them out?
This paint set is about to be superceded by a new version of the paint set, with a few more inks/shades and a couple of extra paints. But since we're looking at this set to enable us to mix our own colours easily, a few extra shades of acrylic colour aren't enough to keep us waiting for nearly three weeks 'til the 2013 version is released.

So we headed off to http://ibuywargames.co.uk/ and bought an Army Painter Mega Paint Set.
The little online chat window popped up and rather cheekily we asked "Ian" if there was any chance of a discount. Amazingly, and by indicating our eagerness to buy straight away, we got a 10% discount!

In the meantime, the artwork for our modular electronic board game is almost complete and ready to apply to a prototype board. With a few neatly painted miniatures, and a working electronic game, we're very nearly close to actually getting a game tried out. But then again, we've been saying that for about six weeks now.......




Wednesday, 4 September 2013

Digital boardgame update - Starship Raiders

It seems that the number of blog posts coming out of Nerd Towers is directly proportional to the amount of time spent getting things wrong or trying to get stuff working! The problem last month (August) was that we actually managed to get a few things right, and actually get them working. The problem, of course, is that real life then kicks in and time spent doing fun stuff like working out how to use new technologies get spent doing boring stuff like real work, product development and all that.

Over the next few weeks and months, we're going to "give it a go" with one of our slow-burning ideas: the digital boardgame. We've got a stable hardware platform, have finally managed to get data into pretty much any smartphone/tablet (more blog posts will follow on the audio encoding, for those who have emailed to ask whatever happened to them) and so we're now devising artwork for our boardgame.

Originally, the plan was to have a generic boardgaming system, which allowed all the game logic to be coded into a device (smartphone/tablet - at one point we even considered making it stand-alone, with an embedded PIC microcontroller and sd card wav player). This is still, ultimately, the aim; but we also found that describing the idea was sometimes met with a lukewarm response. We really need to make a game, which can show off the functionality and benefits of an electronic boardgame - to demonstrate that it's more than just a passing fad to put the game logic onto a controller, and that doing so can actually change the way boardgames are played for the better!



We still love the idea of an electronic Blood Bowl/Dreadball hybrid, and we'll come to that as soon as possible. But our first demo game for this electronic system is going to be a small-scale skirmish, shooty-game-in-space. If you've even played Space Hulk, or Space Crusade, you'll have an idea of how these have been tackled in the past. If you've ever played the original Laser Squad on the ZX Spectrum, you'll have an idea of how awesome it can be having hidden movement and a computer-controlled opponent.


Originally our generic boardgame system was going to use hex-shaped "squares" on the playing surface. In fact, we've spent a lot of this last month coding up a shooty-boardgame (in Flash of course) using a hex-based playing surface.

Then we added some rooms and long, straight corridors. And realised that, for a shooty-space-game, we really needed squares. So the entire app development was started again from scratch, and coded up to use squares this time instead of hexes (we might well go back to hexes for our sports-simulator type game in the near future).

We recently discovered a neat little map editor called "Shuffler" from DriveThruRGP.com.
While the interface is a bit clunky (and the actionscript-based app is infuriatingly buggy) we did manage to crank out a couple of boards. In fact, we ended up re-creating the maps using Flash, but importing some of the artwork from Shuffler, just to get a working map roughed out. Shuffler has a maximum print-it-yourself grid size of 10" x 7" whereas we want each board section to be 11x8 squares.

So far we've knocked up just two board sections. But already, they look quite promising to be used in a variety of layouts, to create some interesting maps to play a set-in-space-shooty-game that we've called Starship Raiders. Why that name? Well, because the .com and .co.uk domains for our preferred names were all taken (Laser Squadron was a favourite at one time, giving a nod towards the inspiration for the hidden movement element of the board game, but that, amongst many others, had already been taken).

Just two board sections have been made up to date


some of the floor tiles and pipes where two board sections connect still need a bit of work to get them to line up perfectly! The change in floor tile patterns, mid-corridor, is also a bit nasty.

side-by-side the board sections make an interesting looking playing area

placing doors at the edges of the board allows board sections with different floor tile patterns to be used next to each other, without creating a jarring effect seen in the earlier examples.


So we're calling our game Starship Raiders, and will build a website, and blog the game development at http://www.starshipraiders.co.uk

If all goes well, we might even consider a Kickstarter fund-raising campaign to get a few copies manufactured and released out into the wild!


Wednesday, 7 August 2013

Data into smartphone and tablets via audio

There's not been much activity on the blog recently, as we've been spending most evenings for the last few weeks working on a data-over-audio approach to communicate with smartphones, tablets and iPads/iPhones without the need for expensive Apple-approved hardware.
It's proven more difficult that we first anticipated: not because what we were trying to do was inherently wrong, but because of the different microphone/hardware jacks on all the different devices.

Let's rewind back to the start and try to explain what the idea was:

Firstly, we wanted to generate a tone on a microcontroller, which could be decoded on any device, preferably using the Flash/AIR development kit. Flash allows us to  "parse" incoming audio data, by presenting the captured audio as a byte array.

Our first attempt was to use the simplest of audio-to-date, similar to NZR.
We simply held the output line high for a number of microseconds to represent a one bit, and pulled it low to represent a zero.


Because microphone input levels are usually in the range 0 +/- 1v, we put a simple voltage divider on our PIC output pin, to bring the voltage down from 5v to about 1v.
We included a potentiometer so that there was a basic form of volume control on the output going to the device. For testing, we directed all audio to the microphone jack on the development PC.

This crude, but simple set up worked, in a fashion. We loaded Audacity onto the laptop and simply displayed the captured audio data on-screen. Everything looked fine; until there was a long period of 0xFF data (all ones)

The input signal stayed high for a few microseconds, then faded away to zero.
After some digging around on the internet, we found that most devices include an inline, blocking capacitor on the input mic, to protect the device from over-voltage.

So while our simple design worked for signals that were switching quickly, we couldn't guarantee that it would work for certain data values. And having a system that only works for a particular range of values is a bit feeble, so we had to think again.

A bit more digging around and we uncovered the idea of "manchester encoding". This is the encoding method used by most industry standard equipment. Simply put, a bit value of one is actually transmitted as 01, and a bit value of zero is 10.

This approach ensures that the input signal is always changing and that the voltage never stays high for more than just a few microseconds.


The data before and after each bit may change the overall wavform of the data being sent, but for each bit, there will be a low-to-high transition for a bit value of 1 and a high to low transition for a bit value of zero. So far, so good. We threw together some simple firmware for testing this approach.

Since we're going to be capturing data at 44.1khz, we worked out that each sample length would be 1/44100 = 0.00002267573 seconds (i.e. roughly 0.023ms or 23uS). Because the figures don't divide exactly, over time we're expecting to get some "framing errors" - i.e. one sample may be slightly too long, or slightly too short once a number of samples have been played.
To get around this problem, instead of one sample being either high or low, we're going to use multiples of 8 samples. This means that the data is being sent much more slowly, but does allow for a degree of error correction when decoding the incoming data.

Define CONF_WORD = 0x3f82
Define CONF_WORD_2 = 0x3fbc
Define CLOCK_FREQUENCY = 20

Dim i As Byte
Dim j As Byte
Dim k As Byte
Dim tmp As Byte
Dim bytestosend(5) As Byte
Dim bytepointer As Byte
Dim bitpointer As Word
Dim delayus As Byte
Dim pin_direction As Byte

Symbol audio_pin_out = PORTB.7

AllDigital
Config PORTB = Output
Config PORTB.5 = Input
Config PORTB.4 = Input
OPTION_REG.7 = 0 'turn on portb pullups

init:
      i = 0
      k = 0
      bytepointer = 0
      bitpointer = 0

      bytestosend(0) = 0 '00000000
      bytestosend(1) = 11 '00001011
      bytestosend(2) = 04 '00000100
      bytestosend(3) = 19 '00010011
      bytestosend(4) = 75 '01001011

      delayus = 125 '46=22khz, 23=44.1khz etc., 125=8khz
      pin_direction = 0

loop:
      If PORTB.5 = 0 Then
            WaitMs 10
            If PORTB.5 = 0 Then
                  Gosub senddata
                  While PORTB.5 = 0
                        'do nothing
                  Wend
            Endif
      Endif

Goto loop
End

senddata:
      'using manchester encoding
      'start with the line high
      High audio_pin_out
      WaitUs delayus

      For i = 0 To 5
            tmp = bytestosend(i)
            For j = 0 To 7
                  k = tmp And 1

                  'for some devices, the signals are inverted
                  If PORTB.4 = 1 Then k = k Xor 1

                  If k = 1 Then
                        'manchesterOne
                        Low audio_pin_out
                        WaitUs delayus
                        High audio_pin_out
                        WaitUs delayus
                        pin_direction = 1
                  Else
                        'manchesterZero
                        High audio_pin_out
                        WaitUs delayus
                        Low audio_pin_out
                        WaitUs delayus
                        pin_direction = 0
                  Endif
                  tmp = ShiftRight(tmp, 1)
            Next j
      Next i


      'return the output pin high
      High audio_pin_out

Return

With the firmware written up and the PIC programmed, all the remained was to capture the audio in Flash and decode it into meaningful data..........